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Water flowing underground
same as it ever was
Fil D'eau 
28th-Sep-2005 02:44 pm
cruising log
Wednesday 28th

This entry is brought to you courtesy of Jean Paul and the H2O wi-fi link. He remembered the boat from its winter mooring 2000/2001 so we have been given free access to the wi fi network.

The trip from Chalon to St Jean de Losne was calm and uneventful, through hazy sunshine and frequent gatherings of clouds on the horizon - warnings of the promised rain forecast by the Capitainerie at Chalon. Three days of rain ahead the cheerful assistant told me - total bollocks! The river meandered through woodland and past fields of Charolais, with nary a puff of wind to stir the sluggish current and only the occasional leaping fish or speeding hire boat to cause any waves. We overnighted at Gerky and had the pontoon almost to ourselves, just a small hire boat with two German men aboard moored ahead of us. The Gerky facilities were all padlocked and the camp site deserted; it being the end of the season or perhaps no longer funcioning. We both took an early bath and sat on the pontoon in the loveliest part of the day for apperatifs. The light in early autumn evenings is absolutely magical. There were more fish a-jumpin' but that was the sole disturbance to the tranquility of our first mooring without the mod cons of electricity and water.

Once past the entrance to the Canal de Centre, the hotel boats and commercial barges cease to be a problem. MWNN took this picture

of a pusher (a barge that pushes other barges carrying cargo, usually rows and rows of cars) in the early morning of our departure from Tournous.

From Gerky we travelled upstream, leaving the woods behind as the river widened and moved even more slowly across the flood plains to the South of Seurre (where we overnighted for the first time because MWNN misinterpreted the distance to St Jean de Losne; the PK markers indicated that it was almost 28km from Seurre to St Jean de Losne (doesn't sound much, but when the maximum speed is 6km per hour, that's over 4 hours to add to the time from Gerky to Seurre) MWNN's calsulations did not take account of the derivation ( a straight canalised section of waterway) that makes the distance closer to 18Km. I took an instant dislike to the Capitain at Seurre who denied he spoke English and then
tried to get me to agree to move the boat from the place on the very broad (new) pontoon to the end of the old, very narrow pontoons further downstream that debouched straight onto the main road. With an arthritic GSD and maniacal Killer Terrier to cater for, I dug my Eeyore heels in and refused to be budged. The Capitain pulled on his most officious hat and accompanied me back to the boat to inspect the 'book' - to check I hadn't lied about the length; his logic ran thus - we are a long boat, he charges by the length, he didn't want us taking the space of two shorter boats on his posh new pontoon. As he charges by the length, I don't see what his problem is. MWNN placated him by agreeing to move if more than two boats wanted to moor on the posh pontoon. He then offered to sell the Capitaine the boat and offered to throw in me and the dogs for the asking price. The Capitaine was happy at the thought of the dogs but declined the offer on the grounds that he didn't want me included in the deal. French logic again - it's a mystery!

We made the trip from Seurre to St Jean de Losne in less than 3 hours and moored up just in time for a late lunch. It was while entertaining the South Africans we'd first met in Louhans that I discovered the Capitainerie here offered connections for the laptop, either throught the phone line or the wi-fi. We drank our way through two very good bottles of Cotes de Rhone Villages (one of which I'd opened for MWNN at lunchtime) and half bottle of Champagne before our visitors called it quits. They are selling their (very new) boat because it's too big.

This morning, MWNN was joined by these fellows

for breakfast outside the galley window. We're moored on their pontoon and they were very miffed at being evicted yesterday. The promised rain materialised this morning but cleared by noon as we returned from the supermarket. An email from our builder necessitated a phone call to my bank earlier this morning to arrange a transfer of an 'interim payment'. MWNN is now getting twitchy to head for home to inspect the work before final settlement is made. But as we have over a week's cruising and almost a fortnight of maintenance work before we can leave the boat, plus two days of travelling, it's highly unlikely we shall be home soon after work is completed.

Which reminds me bogwitch could you see if you can sell my ticket. Not only am I cured at Lourds, the Muse has vanished completely with a jaunty 'adieu'.

We have just had lunch; steak and salad for me, cheese omlette salad for MWNN, with the remainder of the Cotes de Rhone Villages, Champagne and Espresso and chocolate noir. La vie est dur.
28th-Sep-2005 04:54 pm (UTC)
I'll see what I can do about the ticket -I'll let you know.

Sorry (?) to hear about the muse. And thanks for the postcard!

I have checked your awards, but nothing as yet. You've missed a massive kerfuffle over the RDAs.

29th-Sep-2005 02:45 pm (UTC)
The Muse will be summoned back to finish the WIP.

You've missed a massive kerfuffle over the RDAs.

I seem to have missed a lot on my flist too. I dunno, I leave you lot for a few weeks and all hell breaks loose.
30th-Sep-2005 02:26 am (UTC)
Both great pictures, but that first is absolutely gorgeous! MWNN is an excellent photographer.

I hope your muse is just taking a vacation while you are. Everybody seems to be getting stalled on their stories lately. It makes me sad.

I'll go look at the pretty picture some more. I wish I were there too. You probably aren't all that eager to head for home!
30th-Sep-2005 07:37 am (UTC)
MWNN just points his (very expensive, newly bought for his birthday) camera and clicks. The pusher came at us out of the mist and by the time he'd rushed down into the boat to get the camera, it was past us and heading for the next bridge. But I agree, it's a great shot.

The Muse does seem to be taking a long break. Do I gather that JM is no longer keen to reprise the role now that he's got his (metaphorical) teeth into Superman?

I'm not keen to head home but the weather is beginning to get decidedly colder at night and the mist keeps the cough stoked (or am I fooling myself and it's the more frequent partaking of the wine that is doing it every time?

Lovely to hear from all of you you. We are getting ready to leave the wi-fi and I'm just downloading the 10 day weather forecast.
4th-Oct-2005 12:46 am (UTC)
Gah! I missed your birthday! It sounds like it was very nice even without one of my bsnners, for which I am happy.

I've been almost totally offline this last week - between a cold that won't leave and all sorts of kerfuffle at work, I've had neither time or energy for much of anything else.

I haven't heard that JM isn't as interested in the Spike movie, although he is on record as saying there are only a couple more years, and that he won't do it unless he has at least equal star billing. I may have missed some of the latest comments though. I'll be sad if we don't get the movie, but I don't Joss is really interested. I think he just wants to keep the idea going in case he becomes interested. If he can make it a Faith or Willow movie, I think he will.

I'm not sure if I'll be around when you get home. Hubby and I are off for a week's vacation next week. We're off to the coast with the dogs to enjoy the ocean from the comfort of a warm, cozy hotel room. It is a very nice place along a hiking trail that runs along most of the Oregon coast line. It is high enough so you can walk it even when the tide is in and have a view of the ocean and coastline for miles.

The ocean is even more beautiful when the weather isn't so it doesn't matter if it is nasty or not. We pretty much just walk and vegetate the rest of the time. Very renewing.
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